Apera Meters Compared: PH20, PH60, EC20, EC60 and PC60-Z

The short answer: For occasional pH checks, the PH20 (±0.1 pH) is all you need. If you measure daily or want ±0.01 pH accuracy with a replaceable electrode, choose the PH60. For nutrient strength, the EC20 covers hobby use while the EC60 adds TDS/salinity and a replaceable probe. If you measure both pH and EC regularly, the PC60-Z combines two devices into one and sends readings via Bluetooth to the DrainMaster Plus app.

All five devices at a glance

	PH20 Value	PH60 Premium	EC20 Value	EC60 Premium	PC60-Z Smart
Measures	pH, temp	pH, temp	EC, temp	EC, TDS, salinity, temp	pH, EC, TDS, salinity, temp
Measuring range	0.0–14.0 pH	−2.00–16.00 pH	up to 20.00 mS/cm in three ranges	extended range incl. TDS and salinity	pH and EC in one device
Accuracy	±0.1 pH	±0.01 pH	±1% of full scale	±1% of full scale	Premium class, pH to 0.01
Electrode	fixed	replaceable (PH60-E)	fixed BPB platinum electrode	replaceable (EC60-E)	replaceable (PC60-DE)
Calibration	1 to 3 points, auto buffer recognition	1 to 3 points, auto buffer recognition	1 to 2 points, auto recognition	multi-point, auto recognition	pH and EC separately
Protection class	IP67, floats	IP67, floats	IP67, floats	IP67, floats	IP67, floats
Power supply	4 × AAA, up to 1,000 hours	4 × AAA, up to 1,000 hours	4 × AAA, up to 1,000 hours	4 × AAA, up to 1,000 hours	Rechargeable battery, Bluetooth
Special feature	Complete kit with buffers and case	three-color display, warning zones	three measuring ranges, long runtime	two-color display, TDS and salinity	Bluetooth and DrainMaster Plus app
Best for	beginners, occasional checks	precision and longevity	fertilizing by numbers	serious EC work	data-driven growers

pH: PH20 or PH60?

Both devices share the essentials: IP67 housing, automatic temperature compensation from 0 to 50 °C, automatic buffer recognition during calibration, and a complete set with solutions, batteries, and case. The difference lies in resolution and whether the device can be repaired.

The PH20 displays ±0.1 pH, which comfortably covers the typical target window of 5.8 to 6.2. The PH60 resolves to ±0.01 pH, ranges from −2 to 16 pH, and has a replaceable PH60-E electrode. Since every pH electrode is a wear part, you buy the PH60 once, while the PH20 is the device for the price.

Which of the two suits you depends less on the datasheet and more on your measuring routine. We compared both devices in a detailed PH20 vs PH60 comparison, including follow-up costs over several years.

Conductivity: EC20 or EC60?

Both work with Apera’s brush-resistant BPB platinum electrode, and that’s precisely why these devices maintain their calibration where cheap sticks drift.

The EC20 is the straightforward choice: conductivity and temperature, three measuring ranges up to 20.00 mS/cm, up to 1,000 hours of runtime, and calibration at 1413 µS/cm. The EC60 additionally displays TDS and salinity, has a two-color display, and a replaceable EC60-E electrode. For drain control with the DrainMaster, both are sufficient; the EC60 earns its premium if you fertilize according to TDS tables or want the device to outlast its first electrode.

How to derive decisions from the numbers is explained in the article Correctly measuring EC value in water.

When the PC60-Z is worth it

The PC60-Z brings both worlds together: pH, conductivity, TDS, salinity, and temperature in one IP67 device, with an optional ORP electrode. Its special feature is Bluetooth transmission to the free DrainMaster Plus app: every measurement lands in an overview per plant and builds a history of inflow and drain over the entire cycle. This turns spot checks into trends, and that’s how you recognize early signs of salt buildup.

If you were already planning to buy both a pH device AND an EC device, the PC60-Z is usually a better investment than two separate devices.

What all devices need

No measuring device is better than its last calibration and storage. Two articles go into detail on this:

• ✅ Calibrating pH meters with the two-point method and the five most common mistakes.
• ✅ Storing and caring for pH electrodes, because most electrodes don’t die from use, but between two measurements.

The appropriate calibration solutions for pH and EC are available as a set, as is the 3M KCl storage solution, without which no electrode will last.

And because even the best device is only as good as the sample: The DrainMaster cleanly collects the drain water so you can take a fresh sample without lifting heavy pots.

Frequently Asked Questions

How accurately does the Apera PH20 measure?

The PH20 measures from 0.0 to 14.0 pH with an accuracy of ±0.1 pH. This is sufficient for controlling irrigation and drain water, as target windows like 5.8 to 6.2 matter there, not the second decimal place. Automatic temperature compensation balances temperature influences between 0 and 50 °C, so cold tap water and warm nutrient solution can both be read reliably.

Do I need to calibrate the PH20, and how often?

Yes, like any pH meter. The appropriate calibration solutions 4.01 and 7.00 are included. Calibration takes about two minutes: immerse the electrode in the buffer, the device automatically recognizes the value. For daily use, we recommend calibrating every one to two weeks and always before an important series of measurements. Storing the electrode moist in 3M KCl solution significantly extends its accuracy.

EC, TDS or ppm: which should I work with?

All three describe the same thing, namely dissolved salts in water. EC is the direct physical quantity in mS/cm or µS/cm and is internationally standardized. TDS in ppm is an estimated value converted from the EC value, and different manufacturers use different factors, which leads to endless confusion. Our advice: Work directly with EC, then your numbers will match any fertilization scheme and any forum discussion.

Is a combi device worth it compared to two individual devices?

If you regularly measure both values, usually yes. The PC60-Z replaces a pH and an EC device, saves one calibration routine, and transmits the values via Bluetooth to the app, where they become visible as a trend. However, if you only monitor one of the two values or want to keep a second device as a backup, individual devices are more economical.

Why is a replaceable electrode so important?

Because the electrode is the component that gives up first. With good care, it typically lasts one to two years. With a device with a fixed electrode, the entire device is due for replacement afterwards; with PH60, EC60, and PC60-Z, you screw on a new one in minutes. Calculated over several years, this reverses the cost equation as soon as you measure regularly.